Helsinki, capital and largest city of Finland, is one of the least appreciated ports of call on a Baltic Sea cruise itinerary. It lacks a specific old town, such as seen in Tallinn, Estonia or Riga, Latvia. And it does not offer a royal palace with a changing of the guard as seen in Stockholm or Copenhagen. Yet this city with 1.4 million residents offers many hidden gems with regard to its early history along with being a dynamic modern urban center that is at the vanguard of 21st century design.

In 2012, Helsinki was named as the “Design Capital of the World,” and many visitors come to tour its numerous studios that feature varied household products and furniture, the most famous being Marimekko.

Helsinki occupies a central peninsula with large island studded bays on either side, and its major anchorages are quite calm and protected. The countryside was heavily glaciated, and there are large outcrops of ancient granite rock seen throughout the city, especially in its numerous parklands. And the landscape is dotted with numerous lakes and ponds as a result of glacial scour during the last major advance of the continental ice sheet.

Located on the north shore of the Gulf of Finland directly opposite Tallinn, Estonia and situated on the last leg of the voyage to Saint Petersburg, Russia, Helsinki is a city whose history and architecture have been influenced by both Swedish and Russian occupation, the latter as late as 1917. The Swedish Empire established Helsinki (Helsingfors) as a trade competitor to Tallinn, which was a Hanseatic League city across the Gulf of Finland. But it never amounted to much with regard to trade, and then in 1710, it was devastated by plague.

Starting in 1748, the Swedish crown began construction of the island fortress of Sveaborg, better known today by its Finnish name of Suomenlinna as a bulwark against the Russian fortress of Kronstadt. But in 1809, the Russians invaded and captured Finland, incorporating into their empire until the Bolshevik Revolution of 1917 when Finland declared its independence.

The Soviet leader Joseph Stalin was eager to take back Finland, but surprisingly in the first attempt just prior to World War II, the Red Army was beaten back by the tenacious Finns. But they were well aware that Stalin would try again. In stepped Nazi Germany and offered help, which the Finns reluctantly accepted. This resulted in keeping the Soviet Union at bay, but costing Finland war reparations at the end of World War II.

Helsinki was, however, awarded the 1952 summer Olympic Games, which helped focus positive attention on the city. And in the years since, Helsinki has become home to many high tech industries, a center for product design and an important stop on the Baltic Sea cruise itinerary. It is a delightfully clean and progressive city where English is a strong second language and visitors are made to feel very welcome.

Recently UNESCO noted that overall Finland has the strongest secondary education system in the world, and it was also considered to be one of the highest in science and mathematics. Helsinki University is considered one of the three finest institutions of higher learning in the Baltic Sea region.

When you cruise to Helsinki, your docking location will be dependent upon the cruise line and size of the ship. Large cruise ships dock in the commercial harbor west of the city center and guests must use a shuttle bus to reach the city center. The smaller upmarket cruise ships of such lines as Regent, Seabourn and Silversea are able to dock in a small cove generally used by ferry boats, which is at the southern end of the Esplanadi, the main street of the city center. Passengers can disembark, walk through the open air market and then immediately begin to explore many of the important landmarks on their own unless they have chosen to participate in a group coach tour.

The major highlights of the city are for the most part within or adjacent to the city center. The sights not to be missed are:

• Suomennlina Fortress – The Swedish built fortress on an island offshore of the open air market at the foot of the Esplanadi is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Ferries run every few minutes and you can spend an hour or more on the island enjoying this massive fortress complex.
• Market Hall and Public Market – At the foot of the Esplanadi is the open air market selling fresh fruits, vegetables, fish and craft items. To the west is a red and yellow brick building that is the Market Hall where a great variety of prepared foods and baked goods can be purchased or eaten on site, as a great way to understand Finnish cuisine.
• The Esplanadi – This beautiful park that is frequented by locals all day is right in the heart of the city. It has sculptures, fountains and two excellent tea rooms, an oasis of calm in the middle of the city.
• Senate Square and the Lutheran Cathedral – Sitting atop a hill in the city center, the massive, white Romanesque Lutheran Cathedral is the most dominant building in the city center.

• Uspenski Cathedral – The red brick Russian Orthodox Cathedral is located on a hill overlooking the market square at the foot of the Esplanadi.
• Stockmann Department Store – The largest and most complete department store in the Baltic Sea region, Stockmann is not only a great place for Scandinavian clothing and design, but it has a food hall in the lower basement that can easily rival that of Harrod’s of London.
• Temppeliauko Kirkko – The rock church built inside one of the massive granite outcrops is a popular site because of the uniqueness of its construction. It is included in most tours and if you are on your own, it can be reached from the Esplanadi Park on the number two tram.
• Sibelius Park and Monument – Located along the waterfront just northwest of the city center is the ultra modern monument to Finland’s greatest classical composer.
  Olympic Stadium – Just north of the city center is the site of the 1952 summer Olympic Games, a major stadium still in use to the present.
• The Helsinki Railway Station – In the center of town is this classic example of Art Deco design from the 1930’s. It is a busy station with trains arriving and departing under a massive glass canopy.
• Botanical Gardens of Helsinki – Immediately to the east of the railway station is a quite oasis of the plants, trees and flowers that typify the countryside of Finland.

• Seurasaari Island Open Air Museum – Located a few miles northwest of the city center, easily reached by bus or taxi, this island park is a recreation of life in rural Finland over the past centuries. It is essentially a living museum and personnel dressed in traditional costumes demonstrate many of the lifestyle techniques from the past.
• National Museum of Finland – Located within walking distance of the Esplanadi, this beautiful museum, looking more like a cathedral from the outside, explores the physical, historic and cultural environments of Finland.

While out exploring Helsinki, be sure and stop for lunch. The quality and freshness of Finnish cuisine is sure to please even the most discriminating palate. Seafood, cheeses, a variety of breads and scrumptious desserts characterize the Finnish menu. My favorite spots for lunch are:

• Stockmann Department Store – The three main restaurants on the top floor of Stockmann Department Store are all run by the famous Karl Fazer Cafe, which will also be noted in a separate listing. But for a quick meal in surroundings that are not overly crowded either before or after the regular lunch hour, I highly recommend this as your lunch stop. There is a main restaurant with menu service, and it features the national soup – a creamy salmon and potato soup. There is a cafeteria serving a variety of hot entrees and the servers will explain the daily choices. The third option is an open face sandwich and dessert cafe. This self service section offers a variety of cold, open face sandwiches featuring beef, salmon and shrimp that are each a work of art. There are also slices of hot quiche. And the highlight is the cake and pastry section offering exquisite flavors.

• Karl Fazer Cafe – A venerable cafe located on Kluuvikatu between the Esplanadi Park and Aleksanterinkatu. Open seven days a week from 7:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Karl Fazer Cafe is famous for its delectable open face sandwiches and rich delicious pastries. This is a self-service restaurant where you select the items you wish to eat from servers behind the line. Then you must find a table, which during much of the day can be daunting, but people are often willing to share if they are sitting alone and have empty chairs. But the quality of the sandwiches and desserts make it all worthwhile. In addition to light meal service, the cafe has a bakery and candy shop worthy of note.
  Restaurant Savotta – Located at Aleksanterinkatu number 22, opposite Senate Square, this small indoor-outdoor restaurant features traditional Finnish cuisine served in a friendly and casual atmosphere. Their menu includes traditional milk and salmon soup, fresh fish, wild game and tempting fruit desserts, all prepared in the manner of a traditional farm, using fresh ingredients. I have eaten at Savotta at least once every summer during visits to Helsinki and I have never had anything less than a superb meal. Savotta is open from noon to 11 p.m. Reservations are advised.
• Restaurant Savu – Located on a tiny island, but connected by a road and foot causeway, this country style restaurant is a true delight. It is a bit difficult to reach by public transport, but the closest would be the number seven tram from Aleksanderinkatu to Liisankatu and then walking east about one mile. Otherwise it is best to take a taxi from any of the city center venues such as Senate Square or Stockmann Department Store. Owned by the same people who operate Savotta, this restaurant features a smaller menu, but one devoted to traditional Finnish soups, seafood and game with a more limited, but excellent dessert. I highly recommend it as a place where you will rarely find tourists since its following is local. Savu is open for lunch at noon and remains open until 11 p.m. Reservations are advised.
  Ravintola Kappeli – This traditional orangerie is located at the bottom end of the Esplanadi and has both a quick cafe and a sit down restaurant. This is a great place for lunch or dinner and features a great variety of Finnish delicacies. At lunch hour it can get rather crowded, so go at off hours. This is a true Helsinki institution. Open from 10 a.m. to midnight.

I have been to Helsinki nearly 40 times over the past ten years. I enjoy each visit and always find something new to see. For a first time visitor, the list of sights presented in this article will keep you occupied for the entire day. And please do not forget to sample some great Finnish cuisine.

The very name Iceland is so forbidding that many people ask, “Why would I want to visit Iceland?” That is a fair question, so I will attempt to convince those who read this article that Iceland is well worth visiting, and there are a several cruise options that include this mid Atlantic island nation. For starters …

Each year ships are repositioned between Europe and Canada, leaving from a European port in September to arrive in Montréal to begin the fall color cruises, and they generally stop in Reykjavik while en route across the Atlantic.

There are mid summer cruises to Iceland that visit several ports, usually leaving from the United Kingdom, primarily on the smaller five-star ships of such lines as Silversea.

Explorer type cruises are offered by a select number of cruise lines offer in depth viewing of Iceland and often including Greenland.

Typical Icelandic countryside

Iceland is a sizable island nation, approximately the size of Tasmania or the island of Eire (Ireland both Northern and the Republic of). Iceland’s population is around 400,000 with the majority living in the capital city of Reykjavik. Most of the country remains essentially a wild landscape of glacial icecaps, extensive lava fields and active volcanoes, somewhat a hostile landscape, but one of astounding raw beauty.

Looking out over Reykjavik

Iceland is the product of the Mid Atlantic Ridge, a fracture in the earth’s crust where the North American and Eurasian plates are pulling apart. This tearing of the earth’s fragile crust allows magma to boil to the surface, erupting through long fissures and volcanic vents, pouring out many square miles of lava at a time. And on rare occasions, the eruptions can be catastrophic.

Do you remember a few years ago when air travel between North America and Europe was interrupted for days because of volcanic ash from Eyfjallajökull volcano? In the distant past, one eruption sent plumes of poisonous gas over Europe, killing hundreds of thousands. Contrast this to Iceland’s far northern location where glacial ice still covers vast tracts of land, even burying some volcanic cones.

Iceland is unique in that it can have a volcanic eruption under a thick glacier, causing instantaneous melting and flash flooding by a mix of volcanic matter and water in a hot, thick lahar that buries everything in its path. Also add to this the fact that rain and snow melt sink into the porous rock, flashing to steam and shooting back in the form of geysers and hot springs. Iceland generates much of its power from geothermal sources. Reykjavik is heated in winter by volcanic steam piped to every building and home in the city.

A geothermal steam power plant generating electricity for Reykjavik

The great spectacles to see in Iceland are numerous. One of the easiest ways to enjoy the country is to have it included as the main focus of a cruise itinerary, or at the very least by visiting its capital city of Reykjavik as part of a Transatlantic crossing. Here are just a few of the major must see highlights:

• Golden Circle Route – For those limited to one day, this route out of Reykjavik shows you a variety of volcanic and geothermal features along with Iceland’s greatest waterfall (Gulfoss).
• Gullfoss – An incredibly large and powerful waterfall of spectacular beauty almost on the scale of Niagara Falls.
• Godafoss – The second largest waterfall in Iceland is located in the far north of the country, accessible from Akureyri.
• Jokulsarlon Lagoon – Located on the southeast coast, this massive lagoon is filled with all sizes of icebergs, making it an ethereal spectacle.
  Skogafoss – Along the south coast road, this is Iceland’s second most beautiful waterfall.
• Thingvellir National Park – A gigantic rift in the earth’s crust along the Mid Atlantic Ridge is both a scenic wonder and an historic site where Iceland’s first Viking parliament met more than 1,000 years ago.
• Reykjavik – A coach tour of the capital and only major city of Iceland has many monumental sights, including Hallsgrimskirkja (massive cathedral) and the Harpa Reykjavik Concert Hall. And just on the edge of the city is the Blue Lagoon, the world’s largest geothermal outdoor baths.
• Strokkur Geyser – The most active of Iceland’s many geysers, tis one erupts every few minutes with a plume of super heated steam.
• Hekla Volcano – A bit hard to reach, this is the country’s most notorious volcanoe that is capable of a major eruption with little to no advanced warning.
• Dyrholaey – This is a massive beach composed of volcanic debris that separates an interior lagoon from the open ocean. Located on the south coast near the village of Vik, it presents an unearthly landscape.

Gullfoss – Iceland’s thundering waterfall

Thingvellir – A great surface rift that is part of the Mid Atlantic Ridge

I could continue listing natural wonders, but I believe I have made my point. Iceland is truly a land of fire and ice, one that is mesmerizing beyond your expectations. This is also a land with an ancient culture. The first Viking settlers arrived in 874, but Celtic monks are believed to have arrived in 770, but were gone before the Vikings came.

As the country evolved, local chieftains began to squabble and this led to civil war. Iceland merged with Norway, and later was drawn into the Kalmar Union with Sweden and Denmark. Ultimately it was left it quasi-independent, but tied to Denmark until 1944. Today it is totally democratic with one of the smallest parliaments in Europe.

The Viking spirit is still evident in the rugged individualism of the Icelandic people. It was from Iceland that the explorer Leif Erickson set out to establish a foothold in Greenland in 986. Here we come up against a period of early global warming. Erickson’s motivation was to look for more arable land, which Greenland did offer at that time, whereas it is too cold today for farming. This shows that periods of warming and cooling have occurred in the distant past, but of course our modern ability to pour greenhouse gasses into the atmosphere is exacerbating the problem today.

So why visit Iceland by ship? This is a spectacular land filled with geologic wonders and inhabited by a friendly Scandinavian people who will make you feel welcome. Flying into Iceland, staying in hotels and driving 1,000 miles to circle the island can be exhausting. On a more extensive cruise, you can spend time visiting the major sights out of each port while traversing the distances while you relax on board. It is a no-loose cruise opportunity, and if Greenland is added to the itinerary then so much the better.

The Baltic Sea is the most popular summertime cruise destination in Europe. All the major cruise lines offer varied itineraries that enable guests to explore the shores of this northern sea, with some itineraries starting or ending in Copenhagen, Stockholm, Amsterdam or London. Itineraries can be as short as one week or as long as two weeks depending upon the ports of embarkation and termination.

The Baltic Sea is essentially a sheltered body of water, having only one outlet between Denmark and Sweden – the Øresund. This narrow strait, which has always been of strategic importance, is the sole natural entrance or exit from the Baltic, augmented since the early 20th century by the Kiel Canal through the Schleswig-Holstein region of northern Germany. There are many advantages to cruising the Baltic Sea during the summer months:

• There will be long days from 18 to 21 hours of light depending upon the month of the tour.
• The temperatures are generally mild, rarely getting much over 80 degrees Fahrenheit and rainfall is generally minimal.
• The Baltic Sea is for the most part quite calm during summer, only becoming moderately choppy if a summer squall should develop.

A view to the Grand Hotel in Stockholm from the National Parliament

The major disadvantage is the large crush of summer tourists, but this is also true of most locales in Europe. Major sites in the more popular ports of Saint Petersburg and Tallinn can sometimes have a cheek-by-jowl feeling.

Which cruise line to choose is a question that is difficult for many first time cruisers to answer. Price is a factor for some while others are looking to get the greatest number of ports of call crammed into the itinerary as possible. My recommendations are:

• Choose the price range that you can comfortably afford, but consider what is included. On the higher end cruise lines such as Silversea and Seabourn, most everything is included with the exception of shore excursions and laundry, while Regent includes tours whether you choose to take them or not.
• The number of ports should not be as critical as the length of time spent in each port, especially for Saint Petersburg. My advice is to choose cruises that will give you three days in Saint Petersburg, as this is the crown jewel of any Baltic Sea cruise. The more ports crammed into the itinerary, the more exhausting the cruise will be.
• You should look into docking location, as many of the mega-size ships are required to dock much farther from the city center in the ports of Copenhagen, Stockholm, Helsinki, Saint Petersburg and Gdansk, creating the need for lengthy bus rides into the major city centers. If your cruise begins or ends in the United Kingdom, only the small, up-market cruise ships can sail under Tower Bridge and dock in the heart of London. The larger ships must use Southampton, Dover or other coastal ports for embarkation or termination of cruises to the Baltic Sea.
• Ask your prospective cruise seller about shore excursions, in particular if the cruise lines in question fill up their coaches or leave sufficient room so that guests can move about and take photographs from either side. The more up-market cruise lines generally allow only half to two thirds the capacity of the coach, and this does make a difference both in your ability to move about while touring as well as allowing for smaller numbers of people to be following the guide at the major stops.

Looking through the main gate into Old Town Tallinn, Estonia

When in each Baltic port, I recommend the following touring options to maximize your time and give you the best experience possible:

• If you are not especially adventurous or if this is your first time in the region, the overview tours, which generally are half a day in length, will provide you with an initial view of the port. This leaves you the remainder of the day to then go off on your own and visit those sites that are of specific interest to you. However, in Saint Petersburg a visa is required for any independent touring for guests from most nations.
• If you do not like being part of a larger group, then ordering a private car and driver/guide will enable you to tailor your own itinerary. But this does require a bit of advanced research as to what sights you might want to see. If four people combine and order a van, the price split four ways can often be slightly less than the coach tours being offered.
• If you have a bit of independent spirit, you can always use hop on hop of bus service in all of the major ports. Quite often the cruise line will provide a shuttle bus to a central location, which is often where the hop on hop off bus is waiting. Many of these busses have an open upper deck and on sunny days it gives you a more sweeping perspective of the city.
• With a sense of adventure, you can tour on your own, giving you the total freedom to explore inexpensively on foot, by bicycle or using local trams (streetcars) or Metro. In this way you mingle more with the local people and get some sense of what it would feel like to be living in the port in question.

The iconic Church of Spilled Blood in Saint Petersburg, Russia

Also take advantage of the time you have ashore to try some local cuisine. In the Baltic Sea region, food freshness and quality standards are high and the manner of cooking is palatable to western tastes. There is a great emphasis upon fish and other seafoods. And desserts are some of the finest you will taste in all of Europe.The fisherman’s harbor in Copenhagen, Denmark

Now is the time to give serious consideration to taking a Baltic Sea cruise during the summer of 2016, as cruise itineraries are published and bookings are in the process of being made. These cruises often sell out during the winter months since this is such a safe and popular part of the world in which to cruise. My final recommendation is simply to prepare now and then enjoy when the time comes.

Many Baltic Sea cruises either begin or end in Stockholm. There is an elegance and gracefulness to Stockholm that is often difficult to put into words. You must be there to absorb the aura of this grand Scandinavian city.

If I were younger and planning to move to Europe, Stockholm would be my first choice of cities in which to settle. As a world traveler, I consider that quite a strong statement of support for this far northern city whose cold winter nights often negate its other qualities. Stockholm is the capital city of Sweden and the largest city in Scandinavia. But of course the people of Copenhagen dispute that statistic, claiming that they are larger.

Often called “The Venice of the North” because of its many waterways and islands, Stockholm is one of the world’s most beautiful of cities. Its level of cleanliness, its medieval charming Gamla Stan (Old Town) contrasting with its ultra modern facilities make Stockholm a city that is world class in both amenities and flavor.

Stockholm is not on the Baltic Sea. The city is located 100 kilometers (60 miles) west of the Gulf of Bothnia by way of a series of narrow channels interspersed between hundreds of islands. The passage is known as The Archipelago, and it takes several hours of sailing amid thickly forested islands to either depart the Saltslön, the main harbor area, or to arrive depending upon whether this is your port of embarkation or the end of your Baltic cruise. The many islands of the Archipelago are favored venues for vacation cottages by Stockholm residents, and you will catch glimpses of small villages while sailing through.

Sweden is a country that was heavily glaciated during the last ice age. The country is dotted with thousands of lakes, some of them being among the largest lakes in Europe. The coastline is most irregular, containing many deep-water harbors and offshore islands, but given that there are no mountains bordering these beautiful harbors and narrow bays, they are not called fjords.

All of Sweden is thickly forested, its farmland having been carved from the ancient woodlands. Green and blue are the two colors that describe the natural landscape. The forests that begin in Norway and Sweden pick up again in Finland, across the waters of the Gulf of Bothnia, and then extend clear across Russia to the Pacific Ocean, picking up again in Alaska and extending across Canada to the Atlantic Ocean once again. This vast forest of spruce, fir and larch is called the “taiga,” a Russian word for endless forest. The famous Russian author Anton Chekov wrote, “The taiga is so vast that only God and the migrating birds know where it ends.”

The Swedes are descendants of the ancient Vikings, their history rich in tales of warfare and conquest. Vikings are of Germanic origin, and many of the myths and legends that German warriors relate to are actually of Viking derivation. Early Vikings explored deep into what is now Russia. The name Russia is taken from Rurik, an early Viking explorer and colonial leader who settled the Valdai Hills around present-day Moscow. In the local dialect, he was known as Rus, and so came Russia, or in Germanic tongues it is called Rusland.

During the 11^th century, two Viking kingdoms, Svealand and Gotland, united to form what is now Sweden. Between 1157 and 1293, the Swedes conquered Finland, but later between 1397 and 1434, Sweden became dominated over by Denmark, gaining its independence in 1435. Later in its history, the Danes once again occupied Sweden between 1517 and 1523. Over the next two centuries, however, Sweden grew in power, eventually occupying parts of what are now northern Germany and the present-day Baltic states of Estonia and Latvia. After being defeated in 1718 in the Nordic War, Sweden lost much of its conquered territory, and in 1809 as part of the Napoleonic Wars, Sweden lost Finland to Russia.

In 1810, the Swedish king adopted French Count Bernadotte as his son since he did not have an heir to whom he could pass on his crown. Today’s Swedish Royal House is descended from this French noble. Sweden aided in the defeat of Napoleon, and the Congress of Vienna compensated the country by allowing its crown to merge with that of Norway. Sweden continued to include Norway as part of its territory until 1905.

In 1867, Sweden became a constitutional monarchy and its government has remained so to the present day. King Carl XVI Gustav is the present head of state, but a parliamentary system of government actually rules the nation. Sweden became a member of the European Union in 1995, but the country, like the United Kingdom, refuses to use the Euro, thus the Swedish Kroner is still the national currency.

Since the defeat of Napoleon, Sweden has remained a neutral nation. It was this neutrality that was helpful during World War II. A Swedish diplomat in Budapest was instrumental in saving thousands of Hungarian Jews by issuing them Swedish passports. The Swedes also gave refuge to many Norwegian freedom fighters and British aviators during the war, thus helping to ultimately oust the Germans from Norway. Although a neutral nation, the Swedes maintain one of Europe’s best-equipped armies, a small, but well-equipped and trained navy and a formidable air force. Some say that Sweden is among the top ten nations in the world with regard to the potential fighting ability of its air force, the Flygvapnet.

Sweden’s most noted citizen of all time, originally a munitions manufacturer, Alfred Nobel, was instrumental in developing a series of prizes to be awarded for major humanitarian and literary accomplishments. Today, both Sweden and Norway are venues for presenting the Nobel Prizes. Each year both the kings of Sweden and Norway present the various Nobel Prizes in ceremonies held in Stockholm and Oslo.

There have been many other famous Swedes, especially in the film industry, the two best known having been Greta Garbo and Ingrid Bergman, as well as the director Ingmar Bergman (no relation).

The government policy during the last 75 years has been one of combined capitalism and socialism. In Sweden, citizens receive cradle to the grave coverage in health care, education and other social services. The country is always among the top five nations of the world in quality of life when the United Nations publishes its annual report of the world’s best nations in which to live. In 2004, Sweden was number one on the list, while in 2005 it was Norway.

Modern Sweden is about the size of California, and it has a population of around 9 million people. The country shares a mountainous border with Norway to the west, all of its rivers draining to the Gulf of Bothnia, the northern arm of the Baltic Sea.

Southern Sweden contains rich farmland and the country is noted for its fine dairy products. Sweden is also a highly industrialized nation, specializing in high tech products. Its industrial role has diminished somewhat, especially in the manufacturing of fine quality automobiles. Saab, once an automotive producer, today is noted for its jet fighters, and the Gripen is said to be every bit as agile and deadly as the American F-16. It is sold to other nations, but Sweden’s munitions and aircraft are not sold to countries where hostile intent is evident. Sweden is also noted for its quality furniture and glassware.

Most Swedes live in modern, ultra clean cities and towns, primarily in the southern half of the country. The far north is a cold forest and tundra region, inhabited by the Sámi, people we call the Laplanders. They are primarily reindeer herders, but they are at the same time a part of the modern nation in which they live.

Stockholm has a metropolitan population of about 2.1 million people. But few high-rise buildings are seen on the skyline. Rather it is the church spires and old castles and palaces that dominate the city. The Saltslön is the main harbor around which the central city is built, part of Stockholm having been developed on outlying islands, thus giving the city is nickname as the “Venice of the North.”

Most of the central business area consists of buildings from the 17^th, 18^th and 19^thcenturies mingled with more modern structures, but most under ten stories. There are many parks and small squares, and even the major streets are lined with trees. Stockholm is a very green city as well as being so exceptionally clean. Swedes are highly respectful of their public places and litter is something rarely seen.

There are very few residential neighborhoods consisting of single-family houses. Most Stockholm residents live in apartment blocks of various types. In the older part of the city, they crowd together and often front right on the street. In the newer suburbs, the apartment blocks are set into park or garden areas, giving their residents ample room to enjoy the out of doors. Most of the buildings in Stockholm are built either of stone or brick. Many of the older stone buildings are covered in a coating of plaster, which is painted in pastel colors. Given the long cold winters, most buildings have rather steeply pitched roofs covered in slate tiles. Thus this city of the far north, where winter nights are long, is colorful with regard to its architecture.

During the summer the parks are lush with rich green grass and the flowerbeds are bursting forth with a myriad of blooms, adding to the overall color of the city, while the winter landscape can be rather bleak to those who are not fond of snowy vistas.

There is a high degree of patriotic spirit. The Swedish flag, which consists of a royal blue background atop which there is a yellow cross, is flown everywhere. All of the Scandinavian nations are proud of their heritage and proudly show their flags. This is also a deeply religious nation, the dominant faith being that of the Swedish Lutheran Church. Many old church buildings date back centuries, their spires often being the tallest landmarks in each neighborhood. At one time in past centuries, Swedes were fined and severely ostracized if they did not attend Sunday church services. Today religion is separated from state, and such Draconian laws do not exist.

Although the Lutheran faith dominates, there are other religious minorities in the country. Stockholm has a small, but active Jewish community, and recent immigrants from the Middle East have brought Islam to Sweden. Religious minorities have always been accepted since the days of the Protestant Reformation, and persecution has never been a fact of Swedish life.

This country’s neutrality protected all of its citizens from Nazi invasion during World War II, as Hitler firstly saw no strategic reason to violate that neutrality and secondly he wanted to have one friendly power that could validate Nazi treatment of captured nations. The Swedish Red Cross was often invited into concentration camps, shown artificially created settings in which detainees were well treated, this in hopes that the Swedes would spread the word to America that Germany was not abusing Jews and other minorities. At first this ruse had some effect, but the Swedes ultimately saw through Nazi actions.

Traffic in Stockholm is not excessive and the major streets are wide even though this city predates the automobile. This is a city that entices visitors to linger because of its many historic sites and its grand architecture, showing that Stockholm has been the capital of a nation whose roots go back to days when the Swedes were a mighty power. The important sites in Stockholm worthy of note include:

• Gamla Stan – This small island is home to the oldest buildings in Stockholm as well as Kungliga Slottet, Sweden’s Royal Palace, one of the largest in all of Europe. The king does not live in this massive building, but rather occupies a smaller palace in the suburb of Drottningholm. Kungliga Slottet is used for state occasions. Like at Buckingham Palace in London, there is a ceremonial changing of the guard every day, but the Swedish palace guards wear uniforms more tailored and 21^st century looking. Pomp and ceremony is not as much a part of Royal life, as it is in Britain.
• Stadtshuset – This is the Swedish National Parliament, located right on the water, a beautiful building of 19^th century architecture. Sweden’s parliament carries on lively debates, as this nation truly understands the concept of democracy, and the Swedish people take a great deal of interest in the running of their nation.
• Nordiska Muset – The museum devoted to Nordic culture will give visitors a quick glimpse into the life of the ancient Scandinavian people.
• Lill-Jans Skogen – A massive garden and sports complex that includes academic, sports and recreational facilities.
• Drottningholm – One of the city’s most beautiful islands, which also contains Drottningholm Palace, home to the Swedish Royal Family.
• Södermalm – a hilly island that contains some of the oldest residential neighborhoods in Stockholm. It is located south of the island of Gamla Stan, connected by a major road and railway bridge.
• Kungstradgården and Humlegården – Two of the inner city’s major garden parks.
• Djurgården – A large wooded peninsula of land right in the heart of the city and home to many museums and recreational venues. From here one will find the best views of the downtown skyline and Gamla Stan.

By in large Sweden is a very upper middle-income nation, and one will not find any neighborhoods in Stockholm that could be classed as a “slum.” Sweden and the rest of its Scandinavian neighbors provide a national safety net that is sometimes called cradle to grave coverage. There is essentially little to no poverty, but likewise only a handful are exceptionally wealthy, as the country has a graduated income tax that puts the greater burden on the very rich. For this reason, there is a far smaller range of inequality between those at the top and bottom of the social scale.

Sweden also has one of the best educational and health care systems in all of Europe. Swedes are very well educated with a high percentage being university graduates. The national health care program provides for research, and Sweden ranks among the top ten nations of the world in the field of medical breakthroughs.

Sweden is essentially an idyllic country. Its people know that their lifestyle is considered as being among the five best in the world by the United Nations. However, there is one less settling factor worthy of note. Sweden has allowed a small number of immigrants to come from less developed countries in Europe, Africa and Asia. These people unfortunately are for the most part filling more menial jobs, and their presence has been less than welcome by some segments of the population. So far there have been no open expression of discontent, but look what happened in France when Middle Eastern immigrants have rampaged through several Parisian neighborhoods protesting inequalities. That is not to say this could happen in Sweden, as conditions are far better than in France for immigrants. It is more social than economic here, as Sweden is a somewhat closed society with long standing traditions and cultural values. The only other negative factor has been a minor problem with drug use among many teens, but this seems to be a worldwide universal in the developed nations. Essentially Sweden is about as idyllic a nation as one could find, save for Norway.

Traditional Swedish smörgåsbord is the buffet type lunch that is unlike what the rest of us call a buffet. There is a great variety of both hot and cold dishes, many centering on the sea, as fish of all types are popular in this part of the world. Various types of smoked fish, pickled herring and salmon will be served along with boiled potatoes as the first course. Then one chooses from a variety of meats, including reindeer and a great variety of cheeses and crisp flatbreads. As for desserts, it is hard to beat the Swedish bakers. They produce variety of elegant fruit dishes, all types of crisp and buttery cookies and delectable pastries. Restaurants abound in central Stockholm, and Swedes pack into them for both lunch and dinner since this is an affluent country and dining out is almost a national pastime.

Sweden is a country with both a wide variety of manufacturing industries and traditional crafts. IKEA is a name well known in the United States, and its flagship store is located in Stockholm. Swedish home furnishings and glassware are famous throughout the world, as this is country where impeccable taste is a part of the basic culture.

Residential Stockholm is divided into numerous districts separated from one another by waterways and parklands. Thus the city lacks the contiguous feeling of a large metropolis and gives each part of the city a feeling of being a town in its own right.

The entire city is linked by an extensive Metro system, which is clean and efficient. As noted previously, most Swedish cities are heavily dominated by apartment and condominium developments with single -family homes found in the outermost suburban areas.

The people of Sweden consider themselves fortunate to live in a country where life is essentially without want. The country’s overall standard of living places it among the ten highest in the world, and the quality of life is, along with Norway, considered to be one of the best in the world. And Stockholm truly represents all that is good about the Swedish way of life. It is a city of elegance, sophistication, and historic charm and above all it is a city of graceful living.

Submitted by, Dr. Lew Deitch www.www.doctorlew.com

A cruise to Istanbul is for many travelers their first introduction to a part of the Islamic world. Turkey is officially a secular republic that is closely tied culturally and politically to Europe. This is a country where facets of European and Islamic culture blend together, especially in Istanbul. The city serves as a bridge between the European and Middle Eastern cultural realms. Turkey is a country with a very long and rich history that extends back thousands of years. The Anatolian Plateau in the heart of the country is one of the birthplaces of agricultural society. Much of coastal Turkey was occupied by the ancient Greeks and later by the Romans. When the split in the Roman Empire occurred, the eastern part of the empire ultimately became known as Byzantium with Constantinople becoming the center of the Eastern Orthodox Church. Ultimately the Ottoman Turks invaded and made the city the capital of their empire that began in 1299 and lasted until 1921 when the modern Turkish Republic was created. A visit to Istanbul presents you with multiple layers of history, many great archaeological sites and a richness in history and cultural treasures.

All major cruise lines offer itineraries that include multiple ports along the Aegean and/or Mediterranean coastline of Turkey, often combined with ports in Greece, especially the Greek Islands of the Aegean Sea. Quite often cruises will embark and/or terminate in either Athens or Istanbul. Most cruises visiting Turkey operate during the warm summer months, but some cruise lines continue operating well into the autumn.

Istanbul is all about historic architecture, dramatic scenery, fantastic bazaars and outstanding food. What more could any visitor ask for? If you are starting or ending your cruise in Istanbul, you MUST stay a few days. To simply fly in and board your ship or disembark and go right to the airport as many often do, you will have cheated yourself of a cultural experience unlike any other. Istanbul is not a city to be ignored. In this case, how long to stay is a question you must be thinking about. My recommendation would be at least a week, but I know that is not practical for most cruisers. So my fair and honest answer would be no less than three full days if you possibly can spare it.

I have listed what I consider the major highlights of a visit to Istanbul in order of their importance:

• Hagia Sophia Mosque – Now a museum, this one time Byzantine cathedral was turned into a mosque to please the conquering sultan. It’s an architectural marvel considering its antiquity and is an absolute must
• Blue Mosque – across a broad expanse of park filled with sparkling fountains and pools stands the equally massive Blue Mosque. This is an active mosque, but visitors are taken on guided tours. Combining a visit with the Hagia Sophia is the absolute must do activity in Istanbul
• Suleymaniye Mosque – This is another great mosque in the typical Ottoman style. It is very grand and a tribute to the architectural prowess of the builders of the time
• Mihrimah Sultan Mosque – Built in the mid 16th century, this mosque has a very open and airy feel, partly the result of its very high central dome. Its construction is much different than the older more heavily built mosques
• Topkapi Palace – Facing out to the Bosphorus Straits and Sea of Marmara, this was once home to the Ottoman sultans. It is more of a compound of many buildings than a single palace. Both the buildings and the grounds give you a firm understanding of the power of the former Ottoman sultans
• Dolmabahce Palace – Built in the mid 19th century as a summer residence along the Bosphorus, this elegant and heavily decorated palace copies the styles of Europe. It reflects an attempt by the sultans to emulate the opulence of European monarchs rather than the traditionalism of the Topkapi Palace
• The Grand Bazaar – This is one of the largest covered bazaars found in the Middle East. Here you will find many hundreds of merchants selling everything from clothing to household items along with spices, candies, brassware and Turkish carpets. Remember that intense bargaining is the rule. Also it is best to have a guide or at least a good sense of direction, as it is very easy to get lost inside this tightly packed emporium
• The Spice Bazaar – This bazaar located along the Golden Horn in the Old City is devoted to spices. Simply breathing in the multiplicity of aromas and seeing the colors of the exotic and known spices is an experience in itself. You can also buy small amounts of spice that will be placed in plastic bags that you easily pack to take home
• Galata Tower – This ancient tower built in 500 AD is set north of the Golden Horn, the ancient waterway separating the Old City of Constantinople from the newer post 15th century city. A small elevator takes you up to the round observation platform where you get fantastic views of the Golden Horn and the skyline of minarets of the Old City and across the Bosphorus Straits to Üsküdar in Asia
• Galata Bridge – Crossing the Golden Horn, this is the most famous old bridge in the city. It is enjoyable to stroll across the bridge one way; watch the heavy ferryboat and local watercraft coming and going and men fishing. After walking one way, you can take the modern tram back either to the new city area of Beyoglu or to the center of the Old City
• Istiklal Cadessi – This pedestrian street begins at the Galata Tower and runs for over a mile north to Taksim Square. Only a narrow gauge tram is allowed to clang up and down the street, otherwise it is for walking. Here you will find a great variety of shops, dozens of bakeries and candy shops along with many restaurants. It is one of the walking highlights of a visit to Istanbul
• Taksim Square – This is considered the nerve center of modern central Istanbul. And it is here that demonstrations are often organized to protest various government actions. It is enjoyable to just sit and watch the local people go by
• Turkish Military Museum – This museum allows you to see the importance of military history in the evolution of Turkey. At one time the Ottoman Empire was a great military power, but it ended up in the disaster of World War I. The modern Turkish military is one of the largest and most powerful in the Middle East today, and is proud to represent itself as an imposing force for NATO in this far eastern region of influence
• Real Monastery – On Monday and Thursday nights you visit this monastery and witness a ceremonial prayer dance by the Whirling Dervishes. These mystics of the Sufi sect of Islam believe their whirling dance brings them closer to Allah and it is their form of prayer. I consider it a must see event
• The Walls of Constantinople – It is worth hiring a car and driver or a taxi to drive you all around the great outer walls of the Old City. With a car and driver, you can stop and explore not only the walls, but the various neighborhoods on either side of the wall
• Balat – A very old neighborhood in the Old City that was once the Jewish quarter. Today it is starting to develop as a trendy residential district, but it is not touristy. You will see many centuries of architecture and be able to appreciate the history of the Old City with a different perspective than seeing the mosques or Topkapi Palace
• Üsküdar – You can visit this very ancient Asian suburb by taking a ferryboat from the Golden Horn, one of the express busses that will cross the Bosphorus Bridge or the new trans straits Metro line. Only the ferryboat will bring you right into the heart of old Üsküdar. But with a car and driver you can experience the Bosphorus Bridge in a more comfortable manner and then be shown around Üsküdar and many of the other Asian suburbs
• Istanbul Sapphire – This modern high-rise building set on a low hill in the northern suburb of Besiktas has an observation deck on the 54th floor that gives you dramatic views of the city. You can get there by Metro from Taksim Square to the station at Levent, which is about two blocks from the building. If you do not want to risk venturing out on public transport, you can go by taxi, but it is quite a distance from the inner city
• Çamlica Hill – This is one of the highest hills on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. You will either need to book a tour, have a car and driver or arrange for a taxi to take you and wait. The park atop this hill is patronized by locals and by many visiting families from other Islamic countries. Plan on having a coffee or snack in the old teahouse where you will truly have a Turkish experience, as few Western tourists venture to visit. But it is the views of the city that make this visit worthwhile
• Driving along the Bosphorus Straits – You would need to hire a car and driver or taxi to drive you all the way along the Bosphorus Straits, past beautiful suburbs, each with its specific flavor. And if you drive all the way north, you can then view the Black Sea and have lunch in one of the small cafes overlooking the sea. And you will not be mingling with tourists. This will be a Turkish experience.

There are dozens more sights to see in Istanbul. There are many more grand mosques, several Christian churches dating back centuries, the old Jewish synagogue, modern shopping malls and museums, but even if you stay three days, as I recommended, what I have listed here will more than keep you busy. That is why I said the ideal time would be a week for visiting Istanbul. For shopping, which I know is important to many people, I recommend:

• The Grand Bazaar – But this can be a tiring experience. I really recommend it more for sightseeing than shopping unless you have plenty of time and patience to bargain
• Istinye Park Mall – One of the largest, most modern and upscale malls in the city with well-known brand name stores. There are also fine restaurants and cafes in the mall. You will need to take a taxi or have a car and driver because this is a suburban mall
• Akasya Aclbadem – Located on the Asian side in the outer suburbs of Üsküdar. Many locals view this as not only the best and most upscale mall on the Asian side, but in all of Istanbul. It also has many fine restaurants. Although you can reach it by Metro and local bus, it is far easier to take a taxi or have your own car and driver
• Marmara Forum Alisveris Merkezi – Another grand mall with hundreds of modern shops, but on the European side in the suburb of Bakirkoy. But it is difficult to get here using public transport, so you must be able to have your own private transport or taxi

Remember that Istanbul is a friendly city. It has very few neighborhoods that would not be safe for visitors, but these are not areas you would have any reason to visit. Public transport is good, clean and safe. And people are always willing to help even when they do not speak English or other languages from the West. So venture out and enjoy this incredible city, one of the world’s great destinations.

Submitted by, Dr. Lew Deitch www.www.doctorlew.com